Thanks to 'Nels' I am now kitted out for my time in Alaska. Nels has leant me a very funky mountain bike (thanks to Liz his partner who owns it), a whistle on a lanyard to blow for bears and a can of capsicum spray should the worst come to the worst. I have an air horn on the bike and I reckon I am set.
Nels has also given me some cds of his radio programs on the natural world (some of which have aired in Australia on the ABC) and has promised that I can take out a kayak when I want - can't wait.
Humpback whales were slapping their pectorals out in the eastern passage, visible from the loungeroom, last week. Four sea lions swam past about 50 metres away the other day. The gulls keep up a constant music of cries because a small stream comes out just a little way from the house and they are feeding on the salmon eggs and dead salmon. This morning, while I was visiting the neighbours, a seal poked its head above the water just out the front.
It's been a busy few days. Cathy from the University of Alaska writing class works at the Alaska Raptor Centre, a place which cares for injured birds of prey and rehabilitates them when possible. She gave me a great behind-the-scenes tour on Saturday morning, feeding the permanent residents (owls, hawks, a raven and bald eagles) and some recovering birds (a very sweet screech owl recovering from an injury) and checking out the 'flight centre' a massive two story indoor habitat area where recovering birds regain their flying skills before being released.
Then, taking advantage of the sunshine, off with Carolyn for a walk up the mountain to the south of town. 2,300 feet above sea level (we drove a fair part of that) we dodged the mist and clouds to see glimpses of Sitka township and the beautiful islands and ocean that make up this part of the world. On the way down we picked a couple of bags of mountain blueberries and arrived home with very stained fingers (and tongues) from eating them along the way. (you can see a blueberry at the bottom right of the picture).
Dinner with Carolyn and Dorik's neighbours, who had spent the day out in their boat fishing and come home with a stack of huge crabs and a halibut. Just about everybody here hunts, fishes or gathers. Our dinner was started with cheeses and smoked salmon (smoked here of course), main course of fresh crab (till I could eat no more) with green salad and wild rice salad and topped off with blueberry and huckleberry 'cobber', which is kind of like a pie, made from the berries we picked in the day.
Waddled home swearing to have a fast today, but this morning was open house at my neighbour's place, so I fronted up expecting a coffee only to find they had snared some wild croissants, netted a few cinamon rolls and trapped some fresh blueberry pancakes. Also Holly and Rebus have an ESPRESSO machine. Bliss. Two big cafe lattes later I stumbled home and had to drag myself on to the mountain bike to get some exercise.
Then, taking advantage of the sunshine, off with Carolyn for a walk up the mountain to the south of town. 2,300 feet above sea level (we drove a fair part of that) we dodged the mist and clouds to see glimpses of Sitka township and the beautiful islands and ocean that make up this part of the world. On the way down we picked a couple of bags of mountain blueberries and arrived home with very stained fingers (and tongues) from eating them along the way. (you can see a blueberry at the bottom right of the picture).Dinner with Carolyn and Dorik's neighbours, who had spent the day out in their boat fishing and come home with a stack of huge crabs and a halibut. Just about everybody here hunts, fishes or gathers. Our dinner was started with cheeses and smoked salmon (smoked here of course), main course of fresh crab (till I could eat no more) with green salad and wild rice salad and topped off with blueberry and huckleberry 'cobber', which is kind of like a pie, made from the berries we picked in the day.
Waddled home swearing to have a fast today, but this morning was open house at my neighbour's place, so I fronted up expecting a coffee only to find they had snared some wild croissants, netted a few cinamon rolls and trapped some fresh blueberry pancakes. Also Holly and Rebus have an ESPRESSO machine. Bliss. Two big cafe lattes later I stumbled home and had to drag myself on to the mountain bike to get some exercise.
I set out on the same road I cycled last week, determined to go a bit further today. Being Sunday there were a lot more people around which gave me courage. It's a long ride so I still didn't make it to the end, but it was just beautiful cycling along the gravel in this big Alaskan landscape, the mountain rearing up on one side, the sea stretching out on the other, the forest all around me. Punctuated by 'road runner' moments when I meep-meeped my plastic air horn.
At the end of the ride I went by a new, tiny zoo that's just opened up - it has two bear cubs, the subject of some contoversy here in Sitka. The idea is that they are 'problem' bears who would not survive otherwise - these two were orphaned when their mother was shot for scavenging. They are being kept in a massive industrial concrete tank that has its own forest and pond inside. While the space seems adequate when they are cubs, it will be pretty small once they're full grown. No smaller than what they'd have at Taronga Zoo though. Issues aside, I climbed up to the viewing platform and looked in for my first sight of a bear.
Even looking down a long distance on a small bear cub, I had a very strong sense of what imposing creatures these are. The cub weighs about 85 pounds and will grow to weigh 600 or 700 pounds - but even at 85 pounds there is a real sense of massive size and strength, I sure wouldn't want to mess with him.
It's interesting thinking about this bear thing. It means whenever I step outside I have to be conscious and aware of my surroundings, even if that does mean feeling like an idiot at times. There's not an illusion (for me at least) of being the master of the natural world here. With intense weather and the bear population, survival is an issue that must be attended to. Safety isn't always guaranteed. I like that.
A tourist moment - on my new camera I took a little video clip of some spawning salmon. It will probably just look like indistinct brown wriggly things, but let me enjoy the novelty of attempting to put it up here.
Over and out for now. Oh yeah, probably time to do some writing.
Jesse xxxx
PS blogger tells me there was a problem uploading my video. The wiggly brown things will have to wait for another day...... Here's some pictures instead. You can see I'm going to become a wildlife photographer, can't you? Look closely for little fin things sticking out of the water.
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